Here is a selection of training videos that cover some of Janice’s You Tube videos from pre-novice through to Utility.  If you want to see a full collection of her free videos please subscribe to her  YouTube Channel

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Click on one of the following links to see a related video.

Foundation Exercises

This is a collection of foundation exercises that all levels of competition dogs should have…be it 5 months old or 5 years old.


This video is about how you can use the platform to teach new behaviours to your puppy or dog. It is a way to teach your dog how to do something right the first time and to ensure he learns from positive, clear, errorless training. Plus most dogs find platform work fun and motivating so it becomes something they want to do and not something they have to do. I use the platform to help me teach the dog signals without movement, tricks, fronts, finishes, the stand and stand for exam, and go outs. You may come up with even more ideas! Once the behaviour is fluent on the platform I will then do the behaviour on the platform, and then off the platform and expect the same criteria as when on the platform. Most dogs are successful but if you have problems then get a yoga mat and place that on the ground and then make that smaller and smaller. You are looking for confidence in your dog doing the behaviour and no movement forward or backwards. Have fun!

Using the V to get a better broadjump

This technique will help to prevent your dog from getting into the habit of cutting the corner of the broad jump. It will also give your dog more arch on his jump and ensure he takes the middle of the jump. It is a great teaching and maintenance tool to help your dog muscle memory how the exercise is to be done.

Building the V Required components: 

  • Power drill with a large bit,
  • 2 dowels (clear dowels are preferred as they are less of a visual obstruction). Length of 2 x 4.


Start with a piece of 2 x 4. Length will depend partially on your size of the dog but in general, longer is better as it makes the “V” more stable when training on grass. Hold your dowel at the angle you want and pencil in a line for the drill to follow. Use a drill bit that will make a hole big enough to put the dowel in. Drill a hole at the same angle make it at least an inch deep so there is enough hole to hold the dowel.

Tip:  You can drill a number of hole pairs at slightly different angles so you can raise or lower the V if needed. Introducing the V to your Dog I start by introducing the V on its own and lure my dog back and forth through the V a few times to get them comfortable with it. Once they are comfortable with being lured over the V I will play a  game where I toss a treat and have my dog jump back and forth over the V.

Next, I will use a target plate and send my dog to the target plate over the V. Then, I will start to include the broad jump by adding in a single board and do more practice, gradually building up to where I have the official size of the broad jump laid out.  I typically position the V between the last two boards but you can put the V where it works best for your dog.

Note: I don’t use the V on every training session typically every second session or so.


I like to start this process by sitting on a swivel seat that is placed on a 5 gallon bucket. My first step is to teach my dog that there is food in my mouth and that he can learn to catch it. So I will show the dog or puppy with two hands that I am placing food into my mouth while I am sitting on the bucket, I will make blowing noises so it keeps the dog focused upwards while my hands go to my sides, then I will spit to food to my dog, and say “get it”. Do this until your dog or puppy can catch the food, or, understands where the food is coming from. This procedure is setting your “focal point” where you want your dog to look when they are coming in to front position. You can also teach them how to catch in the house, throwing popcorn is a good step to take and they enjoy the game. Once that is established, you can start to throw the food off to the side and then encourage your dog into front position. I prefer to keep my hands at my sides (when my dog is returning to me and fronting) and use blowing noises to encourage the dog to look up at my face. One thing that SO many people get hung up on is using their hands to guide the dog into front position, and in turn the hands become part of how the behaviour is done and it is difficult to convince the dog otherwise when you try to remove your hands from the picture, i.e. muscle memory sets in. Sitting on a bucket is the best place to start this as your face is not far from the dog and they can connect easier than when you are standing. I do not teach small dogs to look at my face, it is to far up and they tend to sit away from you in front position so they can see your face. Small dogs have a lower focal point, perhaps my waist area or my knees depending on the size of the dog. Make throwing the treat fun, it will keep your dog enthusiastic and wanting to keep trying, and in turn, fronts can be fun and not a boring, drilling process. The video shows how I use my legs as chutes for the dog to learn how to come in straight, and I am also introducing off angle fronts at this time. This is part one of a video series I will be releasing on how I teach fronts. I hope you enjoy the learning process,

Using Food Correctly

Teaching an Activation Cue

Teaching an activation cue is just plain fun! It gets your dog excited to go to work and to be in a high drive state before you start training. Having your dog in a working state of mind, and mentally connected is really important for them to be able to give you their best performance.

This video clip shows how I teach it from the beginning. Don’t expect this to happen overnight. My dogs have been conditioned to this so they may make it look easy.

Remember to mark and reinforce any effort, and build on that, slowly asking for more before you reinforce the behaviour.

Walk Back

Walk back is a great skill to have that will compliment your obedience training. I use it as a fun trick, as a way to move my dog back if they come forward on a signal or position change cue and also drop on recall. It is a relatively easy skill to teach. This demo is with my 4.5-month-old puppy Seven. I like to shape this exercise by teaching my dog to seek to putting his hind feet onto a mat that is textured a raised platform or folded towel, something that feels different than the floor surface they are on, when their back feet hit that target they know they have reached their destination. Once the skill is taught the mat can easily be removed and you just mark once your dog has backed up far enough. To build distance and your dog being able to walk back in a straight line, I will lay chutes on either side with baby gates, gutters, etc. and have their mat at the end. I start at the end of the cute, walking my dog over the mat and reinforcing the hind feet on the mat. Then I start to move into the chute and asking for short increments going back until I have my dog going back thru the entire distance of the chute. Have fun training this exercise!

Off, Standby and Working Modes

This clip shows an important skill set that I feel is integral for all dogs to learn. Whether you do obedience, rally or agility, your dog will benefit from being taught this. I elaborate more on this skill set in my Relationship Building and Ring Entrance DVD. Is this something that you have instilled in your training program? If not you are missing out on a very important step of clarity for your dog.

Start Line Stays

This is an exercise I created to get solid waits. I call them start line stays as I teach my dog up close how to stay even though I am leaving in an exciting way.

I have put my disc down so that will help to anchor my dog’s feet and will help him to understand to stay put. You could also use a sit platform for even more clarity.

This is what I call errorless training in that providing an anchor for my dog helps him to make good choices.

I designed this exercise specifically so that I can get my dog really excited to do catch up heeling, this is where I leave my dog and get him excited as you see in the video and then all of a sudden I will call him into heel position, this makes heel position valuable and a position that is fun to find.

However, before you put it into heeling you need to teach the wait. This exercise is also great for teaching impulse control and something all my dogs learn. It also makes stay’s fun and keeps you interesting!

Treat Bag

In this video clip I am using a TREAT BAG, which is not a bait bag! A treat bag does not clip onto your clothes. It is designed specifically with a soft nylon material which is mesh at the bottom so the smell of the treat can easily penetrate out. The top has a velcro strip to keep the bag closed and a tab on either side for easy opening. We are now carrying these treat bags designed specially for Janice Gunn at The treat bag will ensure your dog can get used to a distraction while training, without being able to reward themselves without your permission, as a toy, food bowl, or cookie on a plate could do. The treat bag reward is given by me, altho I may encourage my dog to pick up the bag and bring it to me so we can celebrate the training victory with a yummy treat from the bag, something we do together, helps to build a stronger relationship with your dog. This video shows just a sampling of things I can do with the treat bag. Use your own imagination, be creative and have fun!!!  We sell treat bags at TNT $12

The Pot

I use “The Pot” to teach a young puppy, or adult dog how to use their rear. The pot keeps the front feet in place, so that they can maneuver their rear easily and without confusion. The Pot training transfers extremely well to helping your dog to understand front position and also heel position!

Pot Training for Body Awareness
I use “The Pot” to teach a young puppy, or adult dog how to use their rear. The pot keeps the front feet in place, so that they can maneuver their rear easily and without confusion. The Pot training transfers extremely well to helping your dog to understand front position and also heel position!

Why “The Pot” Training Helps…

    • the dogs really enjoy this exercise
    • the method is easy to teach
    • it helps to improve your dog’s balance
    • teaches your dog how to use his rear
    • keeps your dog supple and limber
    • helps to maintain rear/back muscles
    • use it for a prelude to side-stepping
    • use it for a prelude to doing fronts
    • helps to teach your dog to find and learn heel position

Finding the Right Pot

Your pot needs to have a non-slip surface on the top, 2 – 3 inches high, it can be round or square, with just enough width to it so your dog can turn and move his front feet comfortably, yet not too wide as you want to teach your dog to keep his front feet under him. Make sure that your pot is solid and does not give under the weight of your dog. The idea sprouted from agility trainers whom use a large round ball that their dogs learn to balance on.

Getting Started Training with the Pot

You will find training the pot alot of fun. First just reward the slightest achievement. For example, encourage your dog onto the pot, even if they just touch the pot, reward that to start. I had one dog that simply would not put one foot on the pot, so I gently put one of her feet onto the pot, said YES, and rewarded. This was enough to give her the confidence to try it herself and from there, she started to offer two paws up.

Don’t get frustrated if your dog doesn’t understand what you want right away, just take it one paw at a time and keep it fun!

The Pot, Perch, & Disc Progession

This video shows the transition from an elevated pot, to a flat frisbee type disc, to nothing at all.

The pot helps to teach position by keeping the dogs front legs steady and in one place while his rear uses more action and he is in turn learning rear end awareness.

Once my dog has a clear understanding of doing the exercises I showed on the pot, I will then transition him to a flat disc. He needs to hold more responsibility now for keeping his front legs in place. Once he has a clear understanding of the disc, I will then use the disc at the start of training, and then remove it and try the same exercises without any disc.

I find by training in this progression that my dog has learned positions much easier, faster, less errors, and in turn is enthusiastic to work.

Ways to Teach the Recall

Sparks Puppy Training

This video is about Sparks 8 week old puppy training.  I am teaching him in the presence of his food bowl and he is learning to work and ignore the food bowl which takes ALOT of impulse control for an 8 week old puppy.  It shows that you can easily do this with persistence &  patience and allowing the puppy to make the choice to ignore it without the use of compulsion or No reward markers, which I do not care to use.  I show a sample of some of the early foundation exercises I am teaching Sparks.  I have a DVD called Positive Puppy, which explores more exercises for your young puppy or adult dog.

Very First Step to Teaching Go-Outs

Teaching Go-Outs with the Disc

Food Chase Game

In this game we are going to show you how to build engagement by using movement when you reward your dog.

Why do you think your dog is so fascinated by squirrels? It’s because their quick, erratic movements make them very intriguing to our dogs. Let’s make you that intriguing as well!

Keeping Focus Steps:

1. Stand still (like a statue) and have a treat in one hand and spares in your other hand.

2. When your dog looks at you. Immediately Mark It “YES!”

3. Take a quick step backward with one foot, your arm/hand goes straight back on the same side and reinforce with the treat.

Adding Engagement to Other Exercises

You can use this reward system to add engagement to almost any exercise! Simply cue the behaviour, mark it and take that quick step back before you reinforce with a food treat. This process also prevents “post reinforcement” check out and helps to keep your dog engaged between rewards and cues. Get into the habit of using it every time you train! It will pay big dividends with your dog’s attention if you do. PS – the reason why I said that I would ignore mistakes while doing this game is because I am working a young dog whom is still in a learning process and the game puts him into a state of movement and arousal, eventually he will get better at this once his cue’s become stronger. Right now I am just building fun and confidence while having to “think” on his feet.

Obedience Position Changes

In this video, I am showing how I teach position changes. Before starting this your dog must have a good understanding of stand, down, sit and wait skills. I like to teach this exercise so that it takes away the opportunity for the dog to make errors. I achieve this by getting down to my dogs level and holding my hand in his collar. I want this exercise to be fun and rewarding for the dog and you will see in the video how I encourage him to be fast and how to get the right position with the help of how I am using my hand and suggesting the position change with a quick motion and excitement in my voice. How to advance this will be shown in another video called part 2

Heeling Methods Explained and a Heeling Game

The start of this video explains the two different types of heeling methods that I have taught my dogs. One is the Armband method in which over time and training the armband becomes a focal point for your dog to look at while heeling, giving him clear criteria of where he needs to look. The 2nd method I teach is what I call Push Heeling, something I adapted from a method similar and commonly taught in Europe. I adapted and changed the method to suit the type of obedience I do which is AKC and CKC competition. I taught this to my dog Sparks 4 years ago when he was a puppy.

The second portion of the video shows one of many heeling games I play with my dog….. Once my dog knows a stay and is solid on the stay, then I play a game I call “Start line stays” and that is where I am teasing my dog while I am leaving, encouraging him to break and then rewarding him when he is successful. This game gives me a reliable stay under exciting or distracting conditions. Once I get that, then I can add my excitement into leaving my dog and getting him hyped up to do catch up heeling, the more exciting I can be to come to the more he is going to want to drive into heel position.

Finger Follow

The finger follow cue is a technique that Janice uses in training AND in the ring to keep her dog focused and connected to her. The finger follow is used to lead your dog from place to place in an informal heel and to set position the dog for the next exercise. This will help your dog clearly understand that even between exercises he is still working. Dog’s love this game as it is heavily reinforced and therefore fun for the dog.

see pdf below for more instructions

Scent Tins – Prelude to Article training